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We stock are large number of
batteries ready charged for most vehicles, all with 2/3/and 4 year guarentees,
acid and calcium types .
Car Batteries
The primary purpose of a car battery is to START
the engine.It also is used to filter or stabilize the power and provide extra
power for the ignition, lighting and other accessories when their combined load
EXCEEDS the capability of the charging system, i.e., when the engine is idling.
In addition, a car battery provides power to the electrical system when the
charging system is not operating.
An essential component of your vehicle is your
battery, that lies hidden under the bonnet.
It is essential that you
regularly care for it, for the consequences can be quite embarrassing.Your car
just would not move.Yes you can "push-start" but that would not be a long term
solution.A well maintained battery can usually last for two years. But these
days,with the technological improvements and testing, there are claims that some
can last for more than five years.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHILE BUYING A NEW
BATTERY?
Battery buying strategy will vary based on
climatic conditions.In the colder climates,higher CCA ratings are more
important; whereas, in a hot climate, a higher RC ratings are of more
importance. requirement.
A. Cold Cranking Amps
(CCA)
The most important consideration is sizing the battery's CCA
rating to MEET OR EXCEED, depending on the climate, the car's OEM cranking
requirements.
[CCAs] are the discharge load measured in amps that a
fully
charged battery at 0 degrees F (-17.8 degrees C) can deliver for 30
seconds while maintaining the voltage above 7.2 volts.
Batteries are
sometimes advertised by their Cranking Performance Amps (CA) or Marine Cranking
Amps (MCA) measured at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) or Hot Cranking Amps
(HCA)
measured at 80 degrees F (26.7 degrees C), which are not the same as CCA.Do not
be mislead by CA, MCA or HCA ratings.To convert CAs to CCAs, multiply the CAs by
.8. To convert HCAs to CCAs, multiply HCAs by 0.69.]
In hot climates, buying batteries with double or
triple the CCA ratings that exceed the OEM requirement is a WASTE of money.
However, in colder climates the higher CCA rating the better, due to increased
power required to crank a sluggish engine and the inefficiency of the cold
battery. As batteries age, they are less capable of producing CCAs.
One
of the major battery manufacturers, Exide, publishes the following table:
|
Available Power
from battery |
Temperature
Degrees F |
Power Required to
crank
engine |
|
100% |
80 |
100% |
|
65% |
32 |
155% |
|
40% |
0 |
210% |
|
25% |
-32 |
350% |
[If more CCA capacity is required, two (or more)
12 volt batteries can be connected in parallel. Within a BCI group size,
generally the battery with more CCA will have more plates because a larger
surface area is required to produce the higher current.]
B. Reserve Capacity (RC)
The second most important consideration is the
Reserve Capacity rating because of the effects of an increased parasitic (key
off) load and in emergencies. [RC is the number of minutes a fully charged
battery at 80 degrees F (26.7 degrees C) can be discharged at 25 amps until the
voltage falls below 10.5 volts.] More RC is better in every case! In a hot
climate, for example, if your car has a 360 OEM cranking amp requirement, then a
400 CCA rated battery with 120 minute RC with more electrolyte would be more
desirable than one with 1000 CCA with 90 minutes of RC.
[If more RC is required, two six volt batteries
can be connected in series or two (or more) 12 volt batteries can be connected
in parallel. Within a BCI group size, generally the battery with larger RC will
weigh more because it contains more lead.]
C. Type
The two most common types of CAR batteries are
low maintenance (non-sealed) and maintenance free (non-sealed or sealed). [The
low maintenance batteries have a lead-antimony/calcium (dual alloy or hybrid)
plate formulation; whereas, the maintenance free batteries have a
lead-calcium/calcium formulation.] The advantages of maintenance free batteries
are less preventative maintenance, longer life, faster recharging, greater
overcharge resistance, reduced terminal corrosion and
longer shelf life, but
are more prone to deep discharge (dead battery) failures due to increased
shedding of active plate material.
In hot climates, buying non-sealed batteries is
recommended because a sealed battery will NOT allow you to add water when
required or to test the specific gravity with an external hydrometer.Some
manufacturers introduced a third type of car battery, "dual", that Combined a
standard battery with switch able emergency backup cells. For about the same
cost a better approach was to buy two batteries and isolate them.In the future,
you can expect to see more expensive valve regulated (gel cell and absorbent
glass mat (AGM) .This is because car manufacturers want to extend their
"bumper-to-bumper" warranty periods or as the batteries are relocated from under
the hood to avoid temperature extremes.
For excessive vibration applications, it is best
to buy a commercial or AMG battery. Car batteries are specially designed for
high initial cranking amps (usually for five to 15 seconds) to start an engine;
whereas, deep cycle (or marine) batteries are designed for prolonged discharges
at lower amperage. A "dual marine" battery is a compromise between a car and
deep cycle battery; however, a CAR battery will give you the best performance in
a CAR. For RVs, a car battery is used to start the engine and a deep cycle
battery is used to power the accessories. [The batteries are connected to a
diode isolator and both are automatically recharged by the RV's charging system
when engine is running.
D. Size
Manufacturers build their batteries to an internationally adopted Battery
Council International (BCI) group number (24, 26, 70, 75, etc.) specification,
[which is based on the physical case size, terminal placement and terminal
polarity.] The OEM battery group number is a good starting place to determine
the replacement group. Within a group, the CCA and RC ratings, warranty and
battery type will vary in models of the same brand or from brand to brand.
Batteries are generally sold by model, so the group numbers will vary for the
same price.
This means that for the SAME price you can
potentially buy a physically larger battery with more RC than the battery you
are replacing, e.g. a 34/78 group might replace a smaller 26/70 group and give
you an additional 30 minutes of RC. If you do this, be sure that the
replacement battery will fit, the cables will connect to the correct terminals,
and that the terminals will NOT touch the hood when closed.
BCI and
the battery manufacturers publish application guides that will contain the OEM
cranking amperage requirements and group number replacement recommendations by
make, model and year of car, and battery size, CCA and RC specifications.
Manufacturers might not build or the store might not carry all the BCI group
numbers. To reduce inventory costs, dual terminal "universal" batteries that
will replace several group sizes are becoming more popular and fit 75% or more
of cars on the road today.
Battery manufacturers or distributors will
often "private label" their
batteries for large chain stores. Below is a
list in alphabetical order of the largest domestic battery
manufacturers/distributors in North America and my understanding of some of
their brand names, trademarks and private labels.
E. Freshness
Determining the "freshness" of a battery is sometimes difficult. NEVER buy a
battery that is MORE than SIX months old because it is starting to sulfate.
[Sulfation occurs when lead sulfate can not be converted back to charged
material and is created when discharged batteries stand for a long time or from
excessive water loss.] The date of manufacture is stamped on the case or
printed on a sticker. It is usually a combination of alpha and numeric
characters with letters for the months starting with "A" for January (generally
skipping the letter "I") and digit for the year, e.g.,
"J6" for September,
1996. Like bread, fresher is definitely better.
F. Warranty
As with tyre warranties, battery warranties are NOT
necessarily indicative of the quality or cost over the life of the car. Most
manufacturers will prorate warranties based on the LIST price of the bad and
replacement battery, so if a battery failed half way or more through its
warranty period, buying a NEW battery outright might cost you less than paying
the difference under a prorated warranty.
The exception to this is the free replacement
warranty period. This represents the risk that the manufacturer is willing to
assume. A longer free replacement warranty period is better and is usually an
indication of the quality of the battery.
caution: Batteries contain
a sulfuric acid electrolyte which is a highly corrosive poison, that will
produce gasses when recharged and explode if ignited.When working with
batteries, you need to have plenty of ventilation, remove jewelry, wear
protective clothing and eye wear (safety glasses), and exercise caution.
Whenever possible, please follow the manufacturer's instructions for testing,
jumping, installing and charging.
SOME MYTHS ABOUT BATTERIES
A. Storing a battery on a
concrete floor will discharge them.
Modern lead acid battery cases are better sealed,
so external leakage causing discharge is no longer a problem. [Temperature
stratification within large batteries can accelerate the internal "leakage" or
self discharge if the battery is sitting on an extremely cold floor in a warm
room or installed in a submarine.]
B. Driving a
car will fully recharge a battery.
There are a number of
factors affecting alternator's ability to charge a battery.The greatest factors
are how much current from the alternator is diverted to the battery to charge
it, how long the current is available and temperature.Generally, running the
engine at idle or short "stop-and go trips" during bad weather at night will not
recharge the battery.
C. A battery
will not explode.
While spark retarding vent caps help,
recharging a battery produces hydrogen and oxygen gasses.Battery explosions can
also occur when the electrolyte level is below the top of the plates. If a
spark or flame occurs, an explosion will occur.
D. A battery
will not lose it's charge sitting in storage.
A battery has
self discharge or internal electrochemical "leakage" that will cause it to
become fully discharged and sulfated over time.Prior to storing a battery, it
should be fully charged, placed in a cool location above freezing, and
recharged when it reaches the 80% state-of-charge level or once every six
months, whichever occurs first.If left in a vehicle, disconnect the negative
cable.
E.
Maintenance free batteries never require electrolyte.
In hot
climates, the electrolyte could be "boiled off" due to the high underhood
temperatures. Electrolyte could also be lost due to excessive charging voltage or
charging currents.
F. Test the
alternator by disconnecting the battery with the engine running.
A battery is like a voltage stabilizer or filter to the pulsating DC
produced by the alternator. Disconnecting a battery while the engine is
running can destroy the electronic components, e.g., computers, radio, stereo,
alarm system, etc., or the charging system. Just say NO! if anyone suggests this. |
